Well today has been very much like yesterday but with more swimming and more fish! I was in the sea by 10.30 and they were all up and about. It was like something out of Finding Nemo. I have swum (floated) for miles today and saw shoals and shoals of fish. They were all around me and visibility was really good I could see way down and yes, what i like about snorelling is it;s like flying and even I feel really graceful...like a bird!! hahaha. I WANT TO SNORKEL HERE EVERY DAY! When I am stressed in the future I will just remember my time here in Eilat under the sea and I know I will instantly calm down!!
Well I am definitely off into Jordan tomorrow. I have one night booked at the Arab Dive Centre as recommended by Jenny, an ex-colleague of mine. The soul of Eilat is only under the ocean, when you are up in the real world it's an ugly place really. There is a bloody airport in the middle of the city. Yes, right in the middle. Planes come at you about every hour. It's not that busy though ,thank God. The first time I heard a plane I thought we were under attack!
BUT I am in awe of the air here...sun cream stays on your body ALL DAY. I don't have to keep reapplying. In fact my tan is pretty poor due to over application of lotion! No sticking sand and no moisture. Mum, this is the perfect beach for you none of that annoying 'sand bloody everywhere'.nonsense.
When I got back the owner was pleased to see me. He wanted my opinion on the eagle. To be honest it's awful but I was diplomatic and told him that it was looking good. (yes, lying comes in handy.) He was totally covered in paint and oil and wanted to finish it."I must to finish this bloody eagle" he kept reminding me. I think he wanted me to dig in and help him but I got changed and went out for a Morrocan meal which could have fed four. It was good, but no way as good as the one we had in Bath, Catherine!
It's a strange fact for me that I have felt so safe and happy over the last few weeks in Israel. All the people i have met have been funny, charming and helpful. People all want to know why I am here and am glad that I am 'brave ' enough to be travelling alone.
I just wish my holiday were longer so I could spend more time in Jordan. But I made the right decision to stay here, public transport doesn't exist over there and to stay at dive resorts is very expensive, unlike here. Plus here I get the lovely view of Aqaba, Jordan whilst there I would have to look at the high rise hell which is Eilat!!!
Bye from Israel. Wish me luck on exit. It could take a few hours...but I'm more prepared for the interrogation this time!
Thursday, 15 November 2012
Wednesday, 14 November 2012
Nature Reserve Coral Beach Eilat
Right, this has to be quick. I only have 20 minutes in a shopping mall. These are the only two public computers in the whole of Eilat. Everyone uses their smart phones or brings a laptop on holiday! It's swanky and tacky in the central of Eilat and if that was all there was, I'd be out of here like a shot. But I took the local bus to the Nature Reserve Coral Beach.. Paid 5 quid to get in. Rented a snorkel and had a FABULOUS day. Hardly anyone there. Perfect weather (about 26) and amazing tropical fish on the reserve coral. I got a Ukrainian lady to slap sun factor on my back (because I can't reach it alone!) and off I went for an hour or so, right along the reef. It was beautiful. All kinds of fish of a thousand bright colours. You walk over a pier to get to the edge of the coral, so as not to affect it. and then jump off into deeper sea on the other side. This is perfect too because I don't have any shoes to wear in the sea to protect my feet from coral. There are then ropes with buoys on them to guide you along the far edge of the coral. ANd you have an underwater extravaganza!! The fish love the buoys and congregate round them for a feeding frenzy because the food sticks to them. As for the steps there are just fish crawling around underneath! No need to swim far , most of the fish were directly under the steps having a feast If today were my birthday I would be happy with what I did today! So I have decided to stay another day, I never thought I would stay in Eilat for three nights. This is just because I know from asking and reading that Aqaba in Jordan just doesn't have the protected coral like here and it just won't be as relaxed to swim. I just have to do it all again while I can!! Plus my little hostel is great. It's right up off the strip and much quieter than down here on the sea front. It is so TACKY here and there are high street shops everywhere. It's tax free shopping . It sure is rich chav paradise!! But I have found my own perfect paradise about 5 miles down the road on the way to the Egyptian border!
I didn't take much money or my camera with me today because I didn't know what I would find. But tomorrow I will and hopefully I will soon be able to post some pics. It's ironic that here I could post pictures but today I don't have my camera because I have come straight from the beach.
The weather here is perfect for me but so dry. You just don't sweat at all and this is really strange for me . There is no humidity and my skin feels amazing. (but aging by the day in this heat )but... No lumps and bumps from heat rash!! I just will need to slather on the body lotion later.
On the coral beach you go down a pier and then swim off the end, so you are walking over the coral first and end up swimming in the deeper ocean at the far end of the coral. There are buoys and markers to take you along the route and I love it. Snorkelling to me is the best way to relax and with these lovely little and big colourful fish around me it's perfect.
This shopping mall though is pretty hellish. The florescent lights are almost making my eyes bleed. One thing to comment on is the security coming into any supermarket or complex like this. The guy opens your bag and checks everything. he got a load of wet bikini and nut shells from me! Poor guy! haha! Bet he hates his job. They all look so bored.
Right time to go. I'm losing my spirit down here in the basement of the mall. Off back up to my hostel now to see how the guy is getting on with his eagle creation! Bye
I didn't take much money or my camera with me today because I didn't know what I would find. But tomorrow I will and hopefully I will soon be able to post some pics. It's ironic that here I could post pictures but today I don't have my camera because I have come straight from the beach.
The weather here is perfect for me but so dry. You just don't sweat at all and this is really strange for me . There is no humidity and my skin feels amazing. (but aging by the day in this heat )but... No lumps and bumps from heat rash!! I just will need to slather on the body lotion later.
On the coral beach you go down a pier and then swim off the end, so you are walking over the coral first and end up swimming in the deeper ocean at the far end of the coral. There are buoys and markers to take you along the route and I love it. Snorkelling to me is the best way to relax and with these lovely little and big colourful fish around me it's perfect.
This shopping mall though is pretty hellish. The florescent lights are almost making my eyes bleed. One thing to comment on is the security coming into any supermarket or complex like this. The guy opens your bag and checks everything. he got a load of wet bikini and nut shells from me! Poor guy! haha! Bet he hates his job. They all look so bored.
Right time to go. I'm losing my spirit down here in the basement of the mall. Off back up to my hostel now to see how the guy is getting on with his eagle creation! Bye
Tuesday, 13 November 2012
Eilat
Just a short one this evening because the laptop the hostel owner has given me is so slow. This evening was very good along the beach front and bay of Eilat. it's great weather and everyone is in holiday mood. There are lots of disabled kids around, I think they are on some sort of special programme with their T-shirts and flashing head wear and party clothes. I wish I could read Hebrew to know what it's all about!
This morniing at breakfast I chatted with an older couple from Peru , who are doing a tour of Israel and Egypt for 3 weeks. It's their 30th wedding anniversary present and they were both so happy to be exploring The Middle East together. Apart from that the guy gets weird looks because the Egyptians thought he was Arabic because of his swarthy looks and thought that he'd hooked up with a tourist. When he told them he was from Peru and only spoke Spanish and a little bit of English they didn't understand where Peru was!!
The hostel here in Eilat is mental. the owner is an artist and has made all these mad sculptures all over the place. he's busy making an Eagle at the moment for the busy Christmas period. The rooms are like little huts with mad sculptures all over them. He's completely bonkers but he has lent me his crappy laptop that is covered in paint and this living space I'm in now smells of chemicals and paint. Shame I still can't upload photos. maybe tomorrow!
I'm here , chilling out for one whole day more and then Thursday morning I'm off to Jordan. Eilat is better that I thought, it's surrounded by beautiful mountains and the bay is great. It's mostly full of Russians though. In fact nearly all the shops and signs are in Russian too! Oh my GOD< how awful is that, I hear some of you say!! Russians and Israelis on mass!!!! but to be honest everyone is very chilled and having fun and there are lots of kids (and disabled ones at that!) around. Plus the meal I had this evening was fabulous.
Right, I'm off into the garden area to read my book, Music and Silence. I think Freia Layfield will understand that I must go and carry on reading it. thanks for the recommendation.
bye for now and I really will try to upload some photos once I find a decent Internet connection. I'm off snorkelling tomorrow. Looking forward to it. Bye
This morniing at breakfast I chatted with an older couple from Peru , who are doing a tour of Israel and Egypt for 3 weeks. It's their 30th wedding anniversary present and they were both so happy to be exploring The Middle East together. Apart from that the guy gets weird looks because the Egyptians thought he was Arabic because of his swarthy looks and thought that he'd hooked up with a tourist. When he told them he was from Peru and only spoke Spanish and a little bit of English they didn't understand where Peru was!!
The hostel here in Eilat is mental. the owner is an artist and has made all these mad sculptures all over the place. he's busy making an Eagle at the moment for the busy Christmas period. The rooms are like little huts with mad sculptures all over them. He's completely bonkers but he has lent me his crappy laptop that is covered in paint and this living space I'm in now smells of chemicals and paint. Shame I still can't upload photos. maybe tomorrow!
I'm here , chilling out for one whole day more and then Thursday morning I'm off to Jordan. Eilat is better that I thought, it's surrounded by beautiful mountains and the bay is great. It's mostly full of Russians though. In fact nearly all the shops and signs are in Russian too! Oh my GOD< how awful is that, I hear some of you say!! Russians and Israelis on mass!!!! but to be honest everyone is very chilled and having fun and there are lots of kids (and disabled ones at that!) around. Plus the meal I had this evening was fabulous.
Right, I'm off into the garden area to read my book, Music and Silence. I think Freia Layfield will understand that I must go and carry on reading it. thanks for the recommendation.
bye for now and I really will try to upload some photos once I find a decent Internet connection. I'm off snorkelling tomorrow. Looking forward to it. Bye
Monday, 12 November 2012
Jerusalem
last night I ate in a Yeminite Jewish restaurant. It was good, it's probably the only time I'll eat Yeminite Jewish food because it's the only restaurant in the world!! The bread was like a massive crumpet and I found out that Dana International of Eurovison fame is a Yeminte Jew.
After, back in the hostel I was chatting to a lawyer from Rio de Janiero. He was an interesting guy. He went on the West Bank tour with us and we were talking about that and his English. Yes, I gave him the email of Lake School. It would be very weird if he did turn up there in January!
This morning I headed off to the Garden Tomb. Now this place is outside the walls in the Muslim Quarter and it is like an oasis of calm inside. It's run by a charitable trust in England by 12 directors and the head guy was there today. He chatted to me for a bit about how Nigerians are now getting bursaries from the government to do Christian pilgrimage to Jerusalem (like their Muslim brothers do to Mecca) He says there have been so many coming since June, it 's unbelievable. I can vouch for this; the place was full of Nigerians. All dressed up with their Bibles waving and singing and swaying their way into the tomb. I didn't queue up to go into the tomb but I watched this massive group all dance their way in and then a group of Papua New Guineans followed them, and then there was a group from Singapore. It's big business with loads and loads of buses parked up and shipping in the tourists. but it was a far more joyful experience to witness than the creepiness of the Holy Sepulchre. I did a bit of research and realised that this site is just really so that Protestants can call a place theirs in the Holy Land. The tomb was excavated in the 1880s. There is not enough evidence to say that this is the real place where Jesus was buried. But hey, everyone was having fun and the staff were all very friendly and were from all over the world (Not just ex-British colonies) I enjoyed my time here, but in fact, thinking about it, my trip to Jerusalem has not made me religious at all. The tensions here between the three faiths (and also within each faith) are just too strong. But I do know that here in Jerusalem, there is one God, and he's called MONEY.
After my Tomb experience I headed through Damascus Gate and had a wonderful Arabic Coffee and then walked through the old city to the other side and out and up the Mount Of Olives. i saw the Garden of Gethsemane and Mary's church where she is buried. It was raining and it was a hard climb and to be honest I didn't feel that safe. People were glaring at me and staring just a bit too hard. My guide book says it's a bit rough up there so I decided to come back down by local bus as soon as I reached the top. Now that was funny, the bus filled up with young Arabic kids who had all just finished school. One old guy sat next to me and the rest of the bus was just kids going home. They were not that badly behaved at all but it was a bit surreal being surrounded by 7 year old kids on a public bus.
I then got the tram (Which I found out is only about 6 weeks old) to the top of the Jewish quarter and went to Yad Vashem the Holocaust Martyrs' and Heroes' remembrance Museum. Check it out on line. The building is a stunning piece of architecture and the gardens are beautiful. A fitting place of remembrance I think. It was really exceptional, especially seeing the Hall of Names where the authorities are trying to get information on every single victim of the Holocaust. All the names are in books around the walls and there are pictures on the ceilings. They are treating the books as tomb stones and about a quarter of the hall is still empty, anyone with information can email them.
The Children's Memorial was very emotional. I will never forget walking around inside surrounded by thousands and thousands of stars. It was beautiful and made me cry. As you walk round you here the names and ages of some of the 1.5 million children murdered. I also got to see the original Schindler's list. There are also many monuments to the brave non-Jews who helped save lives/ It was a museum I will never forget and also pulled a lot of information together from my time in Berlin and Poland. You also heard testaments from people who lost all of their families and had witnessed the horrors. But ultimately it's a tranquil and incredibly beautiful place of rest. An architectural delight.
I then went for a vegetarian meal. You piled up the food on your plate and then payed by weight. It was OK, a bit bland but the bread was delicious. Once I got back to the hostel I paid for my ticket to Eilat, yes I'm off to the deep South tomorrow for 2 days and then into Jordan. I am about two days behind schedule but I want some heat and to chill out on the beach...Jordan beaches are not as nice as EIlat, I've heard.
I then had a half hour Arabic lesson with the travel tour organiser here. He's Israeli but can speak both languages perfectly. It was a fun and hopefully useful half hour. Right, off to bed now. Need to pack and get ready for my trip tomorrow. Bye
After, back in the hostel I was chatting to a lawyer from Rio de Janiero. He was an interesting guy. He went on the West Bank tour with us and we were talking about that and his English. Yes, I gave him the email of Lake School. It would be very weird if he did turn up there in January!
This morning I headed off to the Garden Tomb. Now this place is outside the walls in the Muslim Quarter and it is like an oasis of calm inside. It's run by a charitable trust in England by 12 directors and the head guy was there today. He chatted to me for a bit about how Nigerians are now getting bursaries from the government to do Christian pilgrimage to Jerusalem (like their Muslim brothers do to Mecca) He says there have been so many coming since June, it 's unbelievable. I can vouch for this; the place was full of Nigerians. All dressed up with their Bibles waving and singing and swaying their way into the tomb. I didn't queue up to go into the tomb but I watched this massive group all dance their way in and then a group of Papua New Guineans followed them, and then there was a group from Singapore. It's big business with loads and loads of buses parked up and shipping in the tourists. but it was a far more joyful experience to witness than the creepiness of the Holy Sepulchre. I did a bit of research and realised that this site is just really so that Protestants can call a place theirs in the Holy Land. The tomb was excavated in the 1880s. There is not enough evidence to say that this is the real place where Jesus was buried. But hey, everyone was having fun and the staff were all very friendly and were from all over the world (Not just ex-British colonies) I enjoyed my time here, but in fact, thinking about it, my trip to Jerusalem has not made me religious at all. The tensions here between the three faiths (and also within each faith) are just too strong. But I do know that here in Jerusalem, there is one God, and he's called MONEY.
After my Tomb experience I headed through Damascus Gate and had a wonderful Arabic Coffee and then walked through the old city to the other side and out and up the Mount Of Olives. i saw the Garden of Gethsemane and Mary's church where she is buried. It was raining and it was a hard climb and to be honest I didn't feel that safe. People were glaring at me and staring just a bit too hard. My guide book says it's a bit rough up there so I decided to come back down by local bus as soon as I reached the top. Now that was funny, the bus filled up with young Arabic kids who had all just finished school. One old guy sat next to me and the rest of the bus was just kids going home. They were not that badly behaved at all but it was a bit surreal being surrounded by 7 year old kids on a public bus.
I then got the tram (Which I found out is only about 6 weeks old) to the top of the Jewish quarter and went to Yad Vashem the Holocaust Martyrs' and Heroes' remembrance Museum. Check it out on line. The building is a stunning piece of architecture and the gardens are beautiful. A fitting place of remembrance I think. It was really exceptional, especially seeing the Hall of Names where the authorities are trying to get information on every single victim of the Holocaust. All the names are in books around the walls and there are pictures on the ceilings. They are treating the books as tomb stones and about a quarter of the hall is still empty, anyone with information can email them.
The Children's Memorial was very emotional. I will never forget walking around inside surrounded by thousands and thousands of stars. It was beautiful and made me cry. As you walk round you here the names and ages of some of the 1.5 million children murdered. I also got to see the original Schindler's list. There are also many monuments to the brave non-Jews who helped save lives/ It was a museum I will never forget and also pulled a lot of information together from my time in Berlin and Poland. You also heard testaments from people who lost all of their families and had witnessed the horrors. But ultimately it's a tranquil and incredibly beautiful place of rest. An architectural delight.
I then went for a vegetarian meal. You piled up the food on your plate and then payed by weight. It was OK, a bit bland but the bread was delicious. Once I got back to the hostel I paid for my ticket to Eilat, yes I'm off to the deep South tomorrow for 2 days and then into Jordan. I am about two days behind schedule but I want some heat and to chill out on the beach...Jordan beaches are not as nice as EIlat, I've heard.
I then had a half hour Arabic lesson with the travel tour organiser here. He's Israeli but can speak both languages perfectly. It was a fun and hopefully useful half hour. Right, off to bed now. Need to pack and get ready for my trip tomorrow. Bye
Sunday, 11 November 2012
The Dome of the Rock Jerusalem
Well this has been a great day too and it's pouring down with rain . I have trainers on and they are so wet I think I have slight trench foot. I'm in an Arabic cafe in the Christian Quarter and all the computers are in Arabic and everything is back to front. Ie. Tabs go from right to left. But I need to put my photos on a CD for safe keeping and luckily a guy is helping me out. It's pretty slow so I don't know if I'll be able to put all my pictures up. I might have to catch up at a later date
Last night I went down to the hostel bar and chatted with the other people who had been on the tour. We had all found it really amazing. Last night I slept the best since I arrived in Israel so this morning I felt really awake at 6.30/ Had breakfast and was out by 7.30 to go and queue to get into the Temple Mount/ Al Haram ash-Sharif. This is the place where Jews and Muslims think the foundation stone of the World is. The plaza used to be the site of the first and second Temples for Jews but now all that remains is the Western/Wailing Wall whilst the Dome of the Rock is built on top of the stone, so is only accessible to Muslims. We had to queue for nearly an hour and half t get in and the security guard looked through my bag and thought the novel I was reading was a Bible....it's the RED TENT Catherine! OK, the cover could be seen as being a bit religious but no crosses or Chrstian literature is allowed onto the site. They were really strict. This is such a highly contentious religious site. The reason why Jews and Muslims fight so much and why Muslims also want Jerusalme to be their Capital City of Palestine. Anyway I finally got through..with the book still in my possession and yes, it was amazing even in the wind and the rain!!
Last night I went down to the hostel bar and chatted with the other people who had been on the tour. We had all found it really amazing. Last night I slept the best since I arrived in Israel so this morning I felt really awake at 6.30/ Had breakfast and was out by 7.30 to go and queue to get into the Temple Mount/ Al Haram ash-Sharif. This is the place where Jews and Muslims think the foundation stone of the World is. The plaza used to be the site of the first and second Temples for Jews but now all that remains is the Western/Wailing Wall whilst the Dome of the Rock is built on top of the stone, so is only accessible to Muslims. We had to queue for nearly an hour and half t get in and the security guard looked through my bag and thought the novel I was reading was a Bible....it's the RED TENT Catherine! OK, the cover could be seen as being a bit religious but no crosses or Chrstian literature is allowed onto the site. They were really strict. This is such a highly contentious religious site. The reason why Jews and Muslims fight so much and why Muslims also want Jerusalme to be their Capital City of Palestine. Anyway I finally got through..with the book still in my possession and yes, it was amazing even in the wind and the rain!!
My first view of the Dome of the Rock on Friday from the Ottoman Walls.
Door way of the Al-Aqsa mosque. The third most holy in the world to Muslims. Non Muslims were not allowed in.
The Dome of the Rock.
Finally I see it up close. Was amazing.
A rainbow over Jerusalem with a corner of the Holy Sepulchre Church in the corner.
Taken from the Tower of David.
The Dome of the Rock taken from the top of the tower of David. I love these two!
I then went to the Garden Tomb but it was closed. I'll try again tomorrow (Yes, I'm staying here for an extra day because I want to walk more in the Old City and also visit the Yad Vashem, Jewish Memorial Museum)
I then went to the Tower of David History Museum of Jerusalem. It was BRILLIANT. I went through 3000 years of history in different rooms with an audio guide and I loved it. This experience bought everything together and they had recreated holograms from historical evidence of the second temple (They don't have much historical evidence that this was the site of David's city at all and the first temple was raised out of all existence apart from some blackened rocks) . Anyway here's the hologram.
Now this land is occupied by the Dome of the Rock and Al Aqsa Mosques. The mosque used to be the stables for Solomon's horses.
I won't bore you with anymore of Jerusalem's history but the view I got from the tower was perfect. I was lucky enough to see a rainbow! I don't think there are many of them over Jerusalem because it doesn't rain much!
I've then spent the rest of the afternoon wandering around the Old City. I've drunk tamarind juice, eaten date rolls with Poppy seeds , had a coffee and Pitta in the Muslim section and got very wet! But I do have an umbrella this time!
I've also spent the last hour chatting to a guy whilst he's helped me upload my pictures onto disc. I have over 400 of them now and need them off my camera, just incase I lose my camera or it breaks! All done now. I'm going to head back to the hostel after I've added a few favourite pictures to previous posts. Bye
Saturday, 10 November 2012
Palestine
Wow, what can I write. Can I really do today justice?! It has been one of the most interesting days of my life. Wonderful to talk to Palestinians. Our guide picked us up just after 8am and said that today was about seeing Palastinians living their lives as normal humans. Not seeing them as victims, just getting a taster of what it is like to live under occupation and the day to day inconveinienes and problems this entails within normal life.
Tomorrow I will try and find a computer where I can upload photos but tonight I am so tired I just want to write down as quickly as possible a summary of the day.
here goes...
We went through the check point in Bethlehem really easily. No problems that way. We headed straight to the partition wall. We heard what it was like to suddenly have an 8 metre wall up around you. We heard how it suddenly made visiting families really difficult. We saw the Banksy art work on the Palestinian side and the other political graffitti. We went to the banksy shop and we were shown a wooden carving of the Nativity scene with it's own lovely carved partition wall infront of it!
We went to the Church of the Nativity. It was closed due to a visit by the Palastinian leader, Mahmoud Abbas and the Greek Orthodox Patriach. the guide sat us in a cafe and gave us an in detail description of the church whilst we drank coffee. I might go back again now I have time or google pictures on the Internet. This was still very interesting. Our guide was extremely knowledgable.This church is the oldest one in the world to be in use constantly.
We went to where the shepherds saw the star. It was a dump.
We went to the Jordan River where Jesus was baptised. you could have easily jumped across into Jordan. There were Egyptian Coptics on this side and European Christians on the other in Jordan. A few were getting baptised themselves. Water levels were low. but it was still beautiful.
We went to Jericho , the lowest and oldest city in the world. We saw all the ancient ruins and the mountain Jesus climbed up for 40 days in the wilderness. that was pretty impressive too! ( it makes giving up alcohol for lent at the beginning of the year a walk in the park!)
I bought some dates.
We saw settlements for Jewish people which also have their own roads, only for Jewish settlers. Roads along side the other ones with a barrier next to them.
We drove through the rift valley with the hills of the desert all around us.
We went to a brewery and learnt all about TAYBEH beer, check it out on google. the girl showing us around was amazing!!
We went to Ramallah and saw Araffat's tomb.
We saw young teenagers marching.
We walked through the streets of Ramallah, people were OK but you could feel the tension.
I saw a "Stars and Bucks" Cafe! (No Starbucks or Macdonalds there!)
We went for an evening meal together and out guide told us so much about life in Palastine. How it grinds you down and how you have to stay strong,How the Palastinian government are so corrupt and the Israelis just want them to leave the land for ever. The peace process has stopped now and he can't see how they will continue to move forward in their desire for a free Palestine.
The other 11 people on the tour were all really cool as well, a really interesting bunch. We would have made a really good BIG BROTHER series together!!!
then about 7.30pm we headed back to Jerusalem and had to go through a check point as pedestrains. this was sobering to the extreme. We were herded up like sheep and put into pens. I haven't seen anything as dehumanising, ever. It took us over half an hour of queueing. It was a wake up call to the fact that this is a war. But the security guards in Israel were actually quite friendly to us as we re entered, which I wasn't expecting at all.
Right, that's it. Don't worry about me. All is fine and I've found out that writing about/visiting Palestine will not give me problems when I leave the country. I just have to show Tamar's(our guide's) business card at the border and just tell the truth about the day.
I must go and rest now, I'm knackered!
Tomorrow I will try and find a computer where I can upload photos but tonight I am so tired I just want to write down as quickly as possible a summary of the day.
here goes...
We went through the check point in Bethlehem really easily. No problems that way. We headed straight to the partition wall. We heard what it was like to suddenly have an 8 metre wall up around you. We heard how it suddenly made visiting families really difficult. We saw the Banksy art work on the Palestinian side and the other political graffitti. We went to the banksy shop and we were shown a wooden carving of the Nativity scene with it's own lovely carved partition wall infront of it!
We went to the Church of the Nativity. It was closed due to a visit by the Palastinian leader, Mahmoud Abbas and the Greek Orthodox Patriach. the guide sat us in a cafe and gave us an in detail description of the church whilst we drank coffee. I might go back again now I have time or google pictures on the Internet. This was still very interesting. Our guide was extremely knowledgable.This church is the oldest one in the world to be in use constantly.
We went to where the shepherds saw the star. It was a dump.
We went to the Jordan River where Jesus was baptised. you could have easily jumped across into Jordan. There were Egyptian Coptics on this side and European Christians on the other in Jordan. A few were getting baptised themselves. Water levels were low. but it was still beautiful.
We went to Jericho , the lowest and oldest city in the world. We saw all the ancient ruins and the mountain Jesus climbed up for 40 days in the wilderness. that was pretty impressive too! ( it makes giving up alcohol for lent at the beginning of the year a walk in the park!)
I bought some dates.
We saw settlements for Jewish people which also have their own roads, only for Jewish settlers. Roads along side the other ones with a barrier next to them.
We drove through the rift valley with the hills of the desert all around us.
We went to a brewery and learnt all about TAYBEH beer, check it out on google. the girl showing us around was amazing!!
We went to Ramallah and saw Araffat's tomb.
We saw young teenagers marching.
We walked through the streets of Ramallah, people were OK but you could feel the tension.
I saw a "Stars and Bucks" Cafe! (No Starbucks or Macdonalds there!)
We went for an evening meal together and out guide told us so much about life in Palastine. How it grinds you down and how you have to stay strong,How the Palastinian government are so corrupt and the Israelis just want them to leave the land for ever. The peace process has stopped now and he can't see how they will continue to move forward in their desire for a free Palestine.
The other 11 people on the tour were all really cool as well, a really interesting bunch. We would have made a really good BIG BROTHER series together!!!
then about 7.30pm we headed back to Jerusalem and had to go through a check point as pedestrains. this was sobering to the extreme. We were herded up like sheep and put into pens. I haven't seen anything as dehumanising, ever. It took us over half an hour of queueing. It was a wake up call to the fact that this is a war. But the security guards in Israel were actually quite friendly to us as we re entered, which I wasn't expecting at all.
Right, that's it. Don't worry about me. All is fine and I've found out that writing about/visiting Palestine will not give me problems when I leave the country. I just have to show Tamar's(our guide's) business card at the border and just tell the truth about the day.
I must go and rest now, I'm knackered!
Friday, 9 November 2012
Jerusalem
Well I'm here! I'm in a backpackers paradise here. It's a lovely big place and everyone is very friendly. But it's busy and upstairs lots of travellers are partaking in a Shabbat meal which looks pretty fun.( I needed to be here at 2pm if I wanted to register and I wasn't)
Well, firstly my camera won't load photos here. Uploading photos is restricted, which is annoying but to be honest , at least it stops the stress of having to choose which ones to upload.
Last night I sat with 3 guys, 2 Australians and 1 Turkish. the Turkish guy was in his 60s and he had Israeli residency about 5 months ago. His Mother was Jewish so it was easy for him. BUT now he's finding it hard to find work and luckily the hostel in Haifa had given him a job. We talked about Istanbul, where he is from,and the other two guys, Alexi and Kieran had also been there so we had a good discussion about Turkey. It was fun.
Then early this morning I came via local bus to Jerusalem. It took 2 hours. I was really excited to be visiting the city which I had read so much about. I dropped my bags off and walked into the old city. SO THREE HOLY DAYS IN JERUSALEM...bring it on. I'm finally here in Religious Ground Zero!!
Feelings about today.
I have walked along the old Ottoman built Jerusalem walls, was amazing and the ramparts are very steep. I was totally alone and it was a great way to have an introduction to the Old City.
I had a stunning first impression of the Dome of the Rock. Shame I can't share the photo! ( not open today for tourists.)
I went to the Western Wall. The holiest of Jewish sites and saw Hasidic guys rocking and kissing the wall.
I saw lots of Jewish people in a variety of different levels of religious wear.
I saw lots of Christians in a variety of different levels of religious wear.
I saw lots of Muslims in a variety of different levels of religion wear. (Actually that's a lie...they don't do pomp and religious adornment like the other two!)
I did the 3pm Calvery walk along Via Dolorosa following behind about 40 Franciscan Monks. A pilgrimage of high importance for Catholics and Orthodox.
I entered with all the pilgrims into the Holy Sepulcre. It was highly emotive, even for me. (this walk only happens on Fridays at 3pm) I
I saw how Muslims , Jews and Christian are really living on top of each other here. the walk was crazy due to all the other non-partakers walking in the other direction down the narrowest cobbled streets.
How the local Jews and Muslims stay quiet for the procession but the group leaders (with hats again) from Thomas Cook etc don't give a shit as they are quickly guiding their groups around.
I stayed in the Holy Sepulchre for only about half an hour as it was so busy and the actual sepulcre is really creepy and everyone was crying. The place smelled absolutely divine. I was getting high off the incense. Loved the Greek Orthodox part with all the lights.
I saw where Jesus was crucified, taken down and cleaned and the rock which supposedly split apart afterwards.
I saw the Coptic Christians praying in their sanctury.
I saw the Armenian Christians praying in theirs.
I bought a beautiful ring off an Armenian Christian.
I walked down the Christian Road and found some bloody crazy and funny T-Shirt . Emblazoned with such classics as DON"T WORRY AMERICA, ISRAEL IS BEHIND YOU ( with a picture of a jet on it.)
JOIN THE ARMY, MEET INTERESTING PEOPLE...AND THEN KILL THEM. and other such gems.
I ate a really good falafel Pitta.
I drank pomegranate juice.
I chatted to an old guy at Jaffa gate who told me the history of the war in 1948 and how the city was divided and then how it changed again.in 1967 and again after the Yom Kippur War. He didn't ask me for any money. He told me how to get to the Garden Tomb...holy site for Protestants.I'll go there on Sunday if I have time after the DOME OF THE ROCK ,which I am most excited about seeing up close, as it looks amazing!! (Was closed today.)
I drank a big glass of Maccabean beer.
Getting used to seeing teenage soldiers armed to the teeth.
Walked back to the hostel and the streets were dead...everything is shut down for Shabbat.
This hostel is friendly and not everyone is under 30 either!!
Tomorrow I've paid for a West Bank Tour. I leave at 8am and we are going to Bethlehem, the field of the Shepherds, Jericho, a Tour of a Brewery(!!) and finally a couple of hours in Ramallah. The guy in the Tourist Office said that this Hostel does a fair and balanced tour and it was the best to take, so I'm going.
No option to go to Hebron. If I'm feelingon top form I might go alone on Monday. (It;s not dangerous just politically charged and I want to see Abraham/Ibrahim's tomb.)
I might have to stay here longer to get everything done.
Jerusalem has hit me hard...it's an absolute assault to the senses and I can't quite believe I'm here. I'm really proud that I've made it!!!
Night
Well, firstly my camera won't load photos here. Uploading photos is restricted, which is annoying but to be honest , at least it stops the stress of having to choose which ones to upload.
Last night I sat with 3 guys, 2 Australians and 1 Turkish. the Turkish guy was in his 60s and he had Israeli residency about 5 months ago. His Mother was Jewish so it was easy for him. BUT now he's finding it hard to find work and luckily the hostel in Haifa had given him a job. We talked about Istanbul, where he is from,and the other two guys, Alexi and Kieran had also been there so we had a good discussion about Turkey. It was fun.
Then early this morning I came via local bus to Jerusalem. It took 2 hours. I was really excited to be visiting the city which I had read so much about. I dropped my bags off and walked into the old city. SO THREE HOLY DAYS IN JERUSALEM...bring it on. I'm finally here in Religious Ground Zero!!
Feelings about today.
I have walked along the old Ottoman built Jerusalem walls, was amazing and the ramparts are very steep. I was totally alone and it was a great way to have an introduction to the Old City.
I had a stunning first impression of the Dome of the Rock. Shame I can't share the photo! ( not open today for tourists.)
I went to the Western Wall. The holiest of Jewish sites and saw Hasidic guys rocking and kissing the wall.
I saw lots of Jewish people in a variety of different levels of religious wear.
I saw lots of Christians in a variety of different levels of religious wear.
I saw lots of Muslims in a variety of different levels of religion wear. (Actually that's a lie...they don't do pomp and religious adornment like the other two!)
I did the 3pm Calvery walk along Via Dolorosa following behind about 40 Franciscan Monks. A pilgrimage of high importance for Catholics and Orthodox.
I entered with all the pilgrims into the Holy Sepulcre. It was highly emotive, even for me. (this walk only happens on Fridays at 3pm) I
I saw how Muslims , Jews and Christian are really living on top of each other here. the walk was crazy due to all the other non-partakers walking in the other direction down the narrowest cobbled streets.
How the local Jews and Muslims stay quiet for the procession but the group leaders (with hats again) from Thomas Cook etc don't give a shit as they are quickly guiding their groups around.
I stayed in the Holy Sepulchre for only about half an hour as it was so busy and the actual sepulcre is really creepy and everyone was crying. The place smelled absolutely divine. I was getting high off the incense. Loved the Greek Orthodox part with all the lights.
I saw where Jesus was crucified, taken down and cleaned and the rock which supposedly split apart afterwards.
I saw the Coptic Christians praying in their sanctury.
I saw the Armenian Christians praying in theirs.
I bought a beautiful ring off an Armenian Christian.
I walked down the Christian Road and found some bloody crazy and funny T-Shirt . Emblazoned with such classics as DON"T WORRY AMERICA, ISRAEL IS BEHIND YOU ( with a picture of a jet on it.)
JOIN THE ARMY, MEET INTERESTING PEOPLE...AND THEN KILL THEM. and other such gems.
I ate a really good falafel Pitta.
I drank pomegranate juice.
I chatted to an old guy at Jaffa gate who told me the history of the war in 1948 and how the city was divided and then how it changed again.in 1967 and again after the Yom Kippur War. He didn't ask me for any money. He told me how to get to the Garden Tomb...holy site for Protestants.I'll go there on Sunday if I have time after the DOME OF THE ROCK ,which I am most excited about seeing up close, as it looks amazing!! (Was closed today.)
I drank a big glass of Maccabean beer.
Getting used to seeing teenage soldiers armed to the teeth.
Walked back to the hostel and the streets were dead...everything is shut down for Shabbat.
This hostel is friendly and not everyone is under 30 either!!
Tomorrow I've paid for a West Bank Tour. I leave at 8am and we are going to Bethlehem, the field of the Shepherds, Jericho, a Tour of a Brewery(!!) and finally a couple of hours in Ramallah. The guy in the Tourist Office said that this Hostel does a fair and balanced tour and it was the best to take, so I'm going.
No option to go to Hebron. If I'm feelingon top form I might go alone on Monday. (It;s not dangerous just politically charged and I want to see Abraham/Ibrahim's tomb.)
I might have to stay here longer to get everything done.
Jerusalem has hit me hard...it's an absolute assault to the senses and I can't quite believe I'm here. I'm really proud that I've made it!!!
Night
Thursday, 8 November 2012
Baha'i Gardens Haifa
Yesterday evening I met up with a girl who is staying in the same Hostel as me. We ate dinner together in the German Colony. I got this great photo of the gardens. It is so steep.
We sat and ate and chatted together. It was good to have company. Daniella is from Glasgow, so of course after dinner we had to go for a few drinks and yes, we got home about 3am. This morning I felt fine though, I'm sure they must water the beer down here or it's especially weak because I didn't feel rough at all!
Both of us headed of this morning to the Baha'i garden tour and walked up with a Baha'i guy called Niam who was going for one last look before he headed back to work as a surgeon in Nashville,Tennesse.
Every Baha'i person has to volunteer here for a period of time and he was telling us tales of when he was a security guard here over 10 years ago. The strange thing is he hadn't visited anywhere else in Israel even though he'd been here about 8 times. I found that a bit weird and a bit insular really.
We walked down the steps of the garden. It was beautiful but like the Chemin Neuf yesterday, a bit too over clinically perfect and manicured for my taste and the steps were not ergonomically designed. They were like steps down to a shopping precinct! God, I'm a perfectionist! I remember reading once that steps have to be elevated in a certain ratio for the best comfort on the feet and legs. (I can testify to this theory with all the ancient steps I have climbed up and down in my lifetime!) and these 200 babies didn't pass the test.
Anyway, enough of my moaning. Here are some photos of the gardens.
Both of us headed of this morning to the Baha'i garden tour and walked up with a Baha'i guy called Niam who was going for one last look before he headed back to work as a surgeon in Nashville,Tennesse.
Every Baha'i person has to volunteer here for a period of time and he was telling us tales of when he was a security guard here over 10 years ago. The strange thing is he hadn't visited anywhere else in Israel even though he'd been here about 8 times. I found that a bit weird and a bit insular really.
We walked down the steps of the garden. It was beautiful but like the Chemin Neuf yesterday, a bit too over clinically perfect and manicured for my taste and the steps were not ergonomically designed. They were like steps down to a shopping precinct! God, I'm a perfectionist! I remember reading once that steps have to be elevated in a certain ratio for the best comfort on the feet and legs. (I can testify to this theory with all the ancient steps I have climbed up and down in my lifetime!) and these 200 babies didn't pass the test.
Anyway, enough of my moaning. Here are some photos of the gardens.
Flowering cactus
Strange photo...
My favourite one.
The shrine of the Bab.
Inside the visitors' centre.
We then watched a film about what the 5 million Baha'i are trying to do around the world and then we left. There was never any attempt at getting you to join or any dogma at all. All pretty chilled really. But, nah, the Baha'i faith is not for me. Any group of people who decide to worship every 19 days are just a bit too weird for me. They believe a year is 19 months broken down into 19 days each. So their year is 4 days short of everyone else! STRANGE!! WHY??!!!! The main ideas of the faith are good but ultimately another religion on the planet is only asking for trouble!!!and to base it all in Israel....... Many Baha'i in Iran (where the Bab came from) have been killed and imprisoned by the authorities there because they see the faith as nothing but a corruption of Islam. And as every Baha'i has to do a pilgrimage to Haifa at least once in their lives, the Ayatollahs think they are all in cahoots with their biggest enemy. Not a good start I think.
I said goodbye to Daniella, she was off to Tsfat on the Sea of Galilee, the home of the Jewish mystical sect of Kabbalah...the one Madonna advertises. I hope she reads my blog. If she does. HELLO DANIELLA, HAVE A GREAT TRIP!
It was funny last night when we were eating. I ordered veal and she's a vegan. Ummm, bit embarrassing really! But, as I've noticed here they bring you things you never ordered and the meat I ate was definitely NOT veal.
After the gardens I wandered through the Arab quarter of Wadi Nisnas and ended up sitting in a restaurant for hours reading my guide book. I then felt utterly exhausted and to my shame I had to come back here and fell asleep for a couple of hours. So, no beach today unfortunately but I was knackered and I need energy for Jerusalem tomorrow. Shabbat starts at sunset tomorrow so let's see what it will be like to be part of it in Jerusalem. Here are a few pictures of the Arab area.
A mad collection of orange T-shirts here!
Really lovely iron work every where.
Getting the tree ready for Christmas.
I only read this...I was too late for the tour. I don't even know who he is but I'll find out more about him once I'm home.
Right, off out again n into the dark. Off to Jerusalem tomorrow. Think I'm rested enough for that now. Bye
Wednesday, 7 November 2012
Nazareth
OK. Another amazing day. I"ve just got off the bus back from Nazareth and I feel like I have been on a surreal movie set. I found the bus stop this morning really easily but the first bus sailed straight by me. So then I took a more attentive pose and I stood in front of the next one waving like a mad woman. It thankfully stopped and on I got. 45 minutes later I was in Nazareth, a big Arab and Christian run city with a relaxed and friendly vibe. I went to the biggest place first. The Daddy (or rather Mummy) of Nazareth. The Basilica of the Annunciation. (Annunciation is Christian language for when Gabriel tells Mary she will be pregnant with baby Jesus.)
View of the Cuppola of the Annunciation church later in the afternoon.
It was free to enter and full of pilgrims from all over the world. Most of them were in big groups all wearing different coloured hats similar to what you wear when you are working in MacDonald's. You can't go in wearing shorts or sleeveless tops because of religious sensibilities but I think it was only me who found the baseball caps offensive too.
It was amazing inside. To be honest the place was breathtaking. Different Catholic communities from different countries have all given interpretations of Mother and Infant. Many were exquisite. I've taken photos of all the countries of friends. so they can see theirs. Sorry I couldn't find an English or Dutch one (Weird, in this modern world) I even hunted around three times with no luck and there was no-one to ask. Sorry Janet, there were so many Italian ones but I didn't take any photos though. Whoops!!
A very enjoyable hour, I liked this Catholic Church far more than I expected too. Even better once the hoards of hats had gone!
Then it was off to the Mosque. I went through the old town market/souq area and got totally lost but I kind of guessed that if I was going up hill I was OK. I got chatting to an Arab guy who lives back in Nazareth in the winter and in Toronto in the summer. He was an interesting chap.
Similar to your church I think Dad?! They must have made a job lot and shipped them out!
Then it was off for the Orthodox view of the annunciation. I was a bit tired by this point and gagging for a beer but I decided to refrain from alcohol and stuck to my beloved coca-cola/ I also tried to hunt out some good restaurants but everything seemed to be closed. In fact apart from inside the Catholic (and later Orthodox churches) there was a distinct lack of people and even on the bus there were only two of us. It seemed sad really. It was definitely not a crowded city! November is not the time for visitors they are probably holding on for Christmas or maybe the politics out here stops people from coming out and having a look .
This is the well where the Orthodox believe Mary saw Angel Gabriel. It was in a sad state of affairs and the right side was all graffitied. The Greek Orthodox Church of the Annunciation was behind so after a bit of a rest I went in. It was absolutely packed with big burly guys and headscarffed women all chanting and men wailing and moaning and it was all bit too much for me because 'religious rigormortis' was setting in! I got chatting to a Dutch woman and I was trying to fix her camera and we both got told off for not being attentive enough. Ohh, a serious place of devotional worship this was! Probably to make up for the crappy well outside.
There were thousands of coins at the bottom of this dry well at the back of the church. This is where the well water used to flow but obviously doesn't any more.
I was now getting religious fatique and knew I had to call it a day. What a day...I've never had one like it! I feel like I've travelled the globe.
But now I am prepared for the rush of going to Jerusalem and feel like I've had a suitable warm up! It was a really interesting day. But I ended my visit in a weird place called The Mary of Nazareth International Centre. It was run by a group of French Catholics called the Chemin Neuf . It had the feel of a five star hotel about it. NO expense had been spared and it was the only place where the woman asked me for a donation! Cheeky. The church was lovely though. In fact it was an exquisite design, but to me it felt kind of soulless. Like an art gallery.
One last photo which made me both laugh and cry...
That women and the dead share the same entrance into the mosque is rather unsettling I feel.
I didn't get any gormet eating done in Nazareth so I'm off now to find a top class restaurant which will hopefully also have wonderful toilet amenities. Bye.
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