Jerusalem

Well I'm here!  I'm in a backpackers paradise here. It's a lovely big place and everyone is very friendly.  But it's busy and upstairs lots of  travellers  are partaking in a Shabbat meal which looks pretty fun.( I needed to be here at 2pm if I wanted to register and I wasn't)
Well, firstly my camera won't load photos here.   Uploading photos is restricted, which is annoying but to be honest , at least it stops the stress of having to choose which ones to upload.

Last night I sat with 3 guys, 2 Australians and 1 Turkish.   the Turkish guy was in his 60s and he had Israeli residency about 5 months ago.  His Mother was Jewish so it was easy for him.  BUT now he's finding it hard to find work and luckily the hostel in Haifa had given him a job.  We talked about Istanbul, where he is from,and the other two guys, Alexi and Kieran had also been there so we had a good discussion about Turkey.  It was fun.

Then early this morning I came via local bus to Jerusalem.  It took 2 hours. I was really excited to be visiting the city which I had read so much about. I dropped my bags off and walked into the old city.  SO THREE HOLY DAYS IN JERUSALEM...bring it on.  I'm finally here in Religious Ground Zero!!

Feelings about today.

I have walked along the old Ottoman built Jerusalem walls, was amazing and the ramparts are very steep.  I was totally alone and it was a great way to have an introduction to the Old City.
I had a stunning first impression of the  Dome of the Rock. Shame I can't share the photo! ( not open today for tourists.)
I went to the Western Wall. The holiest of Jewish sites and saw Hasidic guys rocking and kissing the wall.
I saw lots of Jewish people in a variety of different levels of religious wear.
I saw lots of Christians in a variety of different levels of religious wear.
I saw lots of Muslims in a variety of different levels of religion wear. (Actually that's a lie...they don't do pomp and religious adornment  like the other two!)
I did the 3pm Calvery walk along Via Dolorosa following behind about 40 Franciscan Monks.  A pilgrimage of high importance for Catholics and Orthodox. 
I entered with all the pilgrims into the Holy Sepulcre.  It was highly emotive, even for me. (this walk only happens on Fridays at 3pm)   I
I saw how Muslims , Jews and Christian are really living on top of each other here. the walk was crazy due to all the other non-partakers walking in the other direction down the narrowest cobbled streets.
How the local Jews and Muslims stay quiet for the procession but the group leaders (with hats again) from Thomas Cook etc don't give a shit as they are quickly guiding their groups around.
I stayed in the Holy Sepulchre for only about half an hour as it was so busy and the actual sepulcre is really creepy and everyone was crying. The place smelled absolutely divine.  I was getting high off the incense. Loved the Greek Orthodox part with all the lights. 
I saw where Jesus was crucified, taken down and cleaned and the rock which supposedly split apart afterwards.
I saw the Coptic Christians praying in their sanctury.
I saw the Armenian Christians praying in theirs.
I bought a  beautiful ring off an Armenian Christian.
I walked down the Christian Road and found some bloody crazy and funny T-Shirt .   Emblazoned with such classics as DON"T WORRY AMERICA, ISRAEL IS BEHIND YOU ( with a picture of a jet on it.)
JOIN THE ARMY, MEET INTERESTING PEOPLE...AND THEN KILL THEM. and other such gems.
I ate a really good falafel Pitta.
I drank pomegranate juice.
I chatted to an old guy at Jaffa gate who told me the history of the war in 1948 and how the city was divided and then how it changed again.in 1967 and again after the Yom Kippur War. He didn't ask me for any money. He told me how to get to the Garden Tomb...holy site for Protestants.I'll go there on Sunday  if I have time after the DOME OF THE ROCK ,which I am most excited about seeing up close, as it looks amazing!! (Was closed today.)
I drank a big glass of Maccabean beer.
Getting used to seeing teenage soldiers armed to the teeth.
Walked back to the hostel and the streets were dead...everything is shut down for Shabbat.
This hostel is friendly and   not everyone is under 30 either!!


Tomorrow I've paid for a West Bank Tour.   I leave at 8am and we are going to Bethlehem, the field of the Shepherds, Jericho, a Tour of a Brewery(!!) and finally a couple of hours in Ramallah.   The guy in the Tourist Office said that this Hostel does a fair and balanced tour and it was the best to take, so I'm going.

No option to go to Hebron.   If I'm feelingon top form I might go alone on Monday. (It;s not dangerous just politically charged and I want to see Abraham/Ibrahim's tomb.)

I might have to stay here longer to get everything done.

Jerusalem has hit me hard...it's an absolute assault to the senses and I can't quite believe I'm here.  I'm really proud that I've made it!!!

Night